Author: Fine Yesterday - WTF

Otavalo, Ecuador

February 25, 2017: We started the day with a six-mile hike around the caldera at Cotacachi Cayapas. When we reached the 11,000 foot summit, the lake was shrouded in fog. As we continued our hike down, the fog lifted, and we were treated to a breathtaking view of the caldera and surrounding countryside. The lake was a deep blue, the wildflowers were prolific and damp with dew, and the air was cool and crisp.

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After we moved on from our hike, we went to the Otavalo Market, and wandered around … fruits, vegetables, meats, textiles, and my weakness, jewelry. I didn’t come home empty handed. We visited a weaver, and she demonstrated the traditional way of weaving alpaca and sheep’s wool … the dyes they used (worms!), and how they spin yarn.

This is will be my last update until I get back to Seattle. We’ve got a couple of flights to get to the Galapagos, and I will be officially unplugged. Until then … salud!

Napo Wildlife Center, Ecuador

February 23, 2017: Hola! Today was a more relaxed day than yesterday, which was good. We needed a bit of a breather after yesterday’s action-packed day. We spent the first four hours of our day in the jungle. We hiked out to an observatory platform, high above the canopy. The platform is 120 feet high, so about 12 floors up. Step by step, up the stairs we go! One highlight (of many) was a pair of scarlet macaws. They did a double fly-by before landing in a nearby tree. Too far for a good photograph, but magnificent through the scope. The platform is the perfect place to view what happens at a bird’s eye level. On ground level, we saw a poison dart frog! Small, but deadly …

Our guides spent a good part of our hike educating us about traditional uses of plants, seeds, and other flora and fauna of the rainforest … from dyes to fiber to medicinal properties. FYI … you can make an excellent dental floss out of a palm leaf.

We got back to the lodge in time for lunch and a restful nap in the hammock. Later in the afternoon, we took one last paddle through the creek and saw more playful monkeys, birds, and a colorful snake. The capuchin monkeys are particularly mischievous … and funny as hell.

Tomorrow, we have a 4:45 wake-up call, then it’s back to Quito, then on to Otavalo. This has been an unforgettable couple of days. The work the Kichwa people are doing here is so important. They are working tirelessly to preserve this sacred space, and I’m so thankful to have had the opportunity to spend time in their midst.

Time to power sleep for a few hours before we’re off again. Cheers!

Napo & Añangu Community, Ecuador

February 22, 2017: We went to bed last evening to a cloudy sky and a bit of a breeze. At some point overnight, the apathetic weather progressed to a fantastic storm. Bright flashes of lightning and booming thunder, rain coming down as if through a fire hose, and wind that filled our room through glass-less windows. Our beds are surrounded by mosquito netting, which joined our gauzy curtains in a whirling dervish dance. It was so exciting! The wild evening completely transformed our lazy creek … filing it, and bringing out the voices of frogs that were silent yesterday.

Unfortunately, the clay lick was birdless, but we did get a quick view of a few wild pigs. From there, we went to the Añangu village, where ecotourism has contributed to a new school, medical facility, and a full-time dentist for this community of around 200 Kichwa people. We had a delicious traditional lunch (I’m learning to love yucca), and watched a presentation about the community’s handcrafted art, local traditions, and cooking, Kichwa-style. By developing projects like this, these communities are helping to save the rainforest, and reduce their economy’s dependence on oil.

The trip up Añangu Creek was full of new things to see. We saw woolly monkeys, macaws, a few caimans, a two-toed sloth, and a family of playful giant otters. Boy, do they have some teeth!

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After dinner tonight, we went on a night walk through the jungle. At one point, we all turned off our flashlights. The night was void of any light, and we stood silently listening to the crickets, frogs, and other nocturnal creatures. After a minute or so, I spotted a flicker of light. Soon, there were dozens of twinkling stars surrounding us. Fireflies! This is destined to be one of the most magical moments of my life. We also saw geckos, tarantulas, crickets, spiders that made yesterday’s arachnid seem small, and a few toads that were the size of a cantaloupe.

What a day. I feel so fortunate to be able to experience this place. Time to rest up for tomorrow’s adventures. Buenos noches!

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Quito to Napo via Coca, Ecuador

February 21, 2017: What a day of contrast! We left busy Quito during Tuesday morning rush hour. Aggressive drivers, horns, people taking advantage of the slightest break in traffic to claim their space. It truly was remarkable that we didn’t witness a collision or a flattened pedestrian. I was thankful for our skilled driver, Ramiro, who guided us expertly through the fray.

We made it to the airport unscathed and boarded the plane to Coca. I love the security process in Ecuador! Shoes on, no X-rays, no lines. Fabulous! From the small airport in Coca, we boarded a motorized canoe for a two hour trip down the Napo River. We connected to a small tributary (Anangu Creek) for another two hours in a small, hand-paddled dugout canoe.

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To go from the frenetic city of Quito, to an airplane, to a diesel-powered boat, to a small, manually-powered canoe, with only the sound of the paddle pushing through the blackwater stream, the cacophony of rainforest birds and cicadas, and the chatter and howls of monkeys was breathtaking. We saw colorfully-plumed birds, the biggest spider I have ever seen (fish spider), families of monkeys … squirrel monkeys, white-faced capuchins, red howler monkeys, and a black, red-headed snake that sat motionless, observing us as closely as we were observing him. And the butterflies! Oh, the dancing butterflies … too quick and flighty to capture on film.

Tomorrow we rise at four-thirty to head to the clay licks, where we hope to get lucky with parakeets, macaws, and some to-be determined mammals. So, buenas noches!

Quito, Ecuador

February 20, 2017: Hola from Quito! What a fascinating city, at a breathtaking time in the history of Ecuador. The Presidential election hangs in the balance, with another election likely. There is a businessman running against a socialist, and everyone is taking sides. Protesters gather, carrying signs, and the policia stand sentinel with watchful eyes. This, against the backdrop of centuries-old architecture and history. Our conversations with the local Ecuadorian people demonstrate how many parallels there are between our cultures. Turbulent times, indeed.

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The architecture is an eclectic blend of Spanish and European influence, and I am enamored with the symphony of color, musical language, and beautiful, smiling faces. There is a special magic here.

Tomorrow we’re headed down the Napo River in the Amazon basin. I’m ready for the sound of birdsong and the fresh smell of the rainforest. Adios …

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Seattle to Quito, Ecuador

February 19, 2017: Today is Election Day in Ecuador! And it is no less divisive than our own has been. Our driver let us know that it may be an interesting day in old town Quito tomorrow. Well, I always enjoy coming home with a lively story or two.

We arrived at night, so I don’t have a sense of the landscape or scenery. What I do know is that there are are palm trees. It is hilly. Beautiful doors line the ancient streets. And I learned that EcuadorIan roses are world renowned. If the roses that greeted us in the lobby of our Inn are representatIve of their beauty, their reputation is well-deserved.

Early wake up call to explore Quito, so it’s time for lights out …

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Bullseye

January 15, 2017: My son was thirteen when Bullseye found him on the porch. It was a cold, fall day, and Justin had locked himself out of the house. Skinny and skittish, Bullseye sidled up to my boy, as he sat waiting for me to come home. “We’ll get him fed,” I said, “but he’s not our cat.” As the days got colder, I softened. “We’ll let him come in from the cold,” I said, “but he’s not our cat.” Then, “We’ll take him to the vet. Get him checked out. Give him his shots.” And softly, “But, he’s not our cat.” Finally, “This is Bullseye. He is our cat.”

Bullseye never really warmed up to anyone but my son. He would stiff-arm anyone that tried to hold him. He’d brush up against you, and then quickly dart away. But Justin could hug him and kiss the top of his head. He could scratch his ears and stroke his soft fur. He never left his side.

There were many years in between then and now, when Justin was not entirely lovable. As his mom, I loved him fiercely, while Bullseye loved him gently. At the times where he needed that the most.

Bullseye died yesterday, nestled in the crook of his boy’s arm. I stood holding Justin, his body quaking with grief, and the years melted away. So many memories! Bullseye stood sentinel over Justin through twenty years of angst and laughter, hardship and growth. When Justin was in a car accident at nineteen, he was bed-bound for six months. But he was not alone. He was never alone.

Justin spent a great deal of time over the last year nursing his old partner. He loved him well. But it was time to go, and it was a peaceful journey over that rainbow bridge. Farewell, dear Bullseye. Thanks for looking after my boy.

Little Blue Pills

August 18, 2016: United States Postal Service PSA: do not, under any circumstances, open mail or packages that are left in your mailbox, without thoroughly examining the recipient name.

To save money, I get my prescriptions by mail order. I received one yesterday, which was a little puzzling, since they typically let you know they’re coming, and I hadn’t received a notification. Hmm. Must have gone to my SPAM folder. Multi-tasking, while on the phone with my mom, I opened my mail. Oh. The. Horrors. The prescription was delivered to the wrong address. And I can’t unsee what was in that benign-looking white envelope. Viagra. My elderly, white-haired, sometimes terse, always tidy neighbor with the much younger German girlfriend has been getting BUSY.

Had this happened with any other piece of mail or package, I would have immediately hand-delivered it with a profuse apology for mistakenly opening the package. Instead, in the darkness of night, I left it on the doorstep. I’ll never look at him quite the same way again. But hey … you GO, neighbor.

Little stinker

July 23, 2016: My niece and I are off hiking this weekend. I thought it would be a great opportunity to teach her about important things you should carry on such endeavors. I got my pack ready. Later, I lifted it, and it was significantly heavier than the last time I picked it up. Checked it out, and it had been loaded with rocks. So while I was working on teaching Izzy about the ten essentials, she was working on teaching me about “super cool stuff you collect”. And sneak in to your Aunt’s pack. Little stinker. I adore her.