A wild night, indeed. Steady winds of 50 mph rocked our boat, dragging us 250 meters, or 800 feet, from our original position. For us, the melody of the wind and brash ice against the hull were a lullaby. But for the captain, it was a very long night.
The winds calmed down overnight, but they were still heavy, and we experienced our first significant rain. We spent our morning editing photos, writing, and visiting around the table until the seas calmed. Once they had, we set out for a walkabout on a nearby island.
Anyone who thinks that Antarctica is limited to black and white has never seen Antarctica. In addition to the limitless shades of blue, there are oranges and greens and pinks, both in the varied geology and the prolific algae that covers the snow. Antarctica is an extension of the Andes mountain range, and the topography is widely varied. Detritus left behind by the birds and seals littered the small island with hollowed mollusks, feathers, and bones.
After lunch, we boarded the zodiac to visit a Gentoo penguin colony. The rookery sat high above the iceberg graveyard, offering a spectacular perspective of the bay. The enormity of the accumulated icebergs was remarkable; from the stable, solid, geometric slabs of ice, to fragile arches, and fluid curves. The dark, stormy skies provided a dramatic backdrop to the sunlit ice, as the penguins played, stole rocks for their nests, and fed their chicks. An egg- and chick-thieving skua yielded to an angry mama, as a wandering penguin fell victim to a well-aimed shit rocket to the face. Not for the first time, it occurs to me that I am glad I’m not a penguin.
What it has meant to me to visit this magnificent continent is evolving; the gravity of this place is stirring in my bones. The end of our journey now feels closer than the beginning. I’ve seen and experienced things that are now an integral part of me; a part of my mind, my heart, and my being. The journey has been less of a fun trip than an important one. A ferocity to protect this vast wildness has been born, and I have a new sense of responsibility for her guardianship. Antarctica is a living, breathing presence in our world … Mother Earth … Gaia.
She’s worth fighting for.
Wow! Fantastic! Love your photos of the penguins (especially the photo with you in the forefront)! You are already making an amazing earth steward by sharing your stories, photos, and your passion of such a majestic and important continent. Thank you Deborah!
Thank you, Heather! I fell in love with this beautiful continent. 💕